Did you know Zebras once roamed around Idaho?
It was a little before our time. About 3.5 million years ago to be more accurate. They may not have the black and white versions we know today, but thanks to the worlds oldest horse fossils unearthed in the Hagerman Fossil Beds in Idaho, we see where the evolution started. Who would have thought the worlds horse population would be traced back to a quiet community of Hagerman with a population of less than a thousand?
In this tiny town of Hagerman sits a small but impressive museum that is unquestionably worth a stop if you’re heading through the area. As for hiking opportunities in this National Monument Site, your options are minimal. Let’s take a more in-depth look at what you can expect when visiting the Hagerman Fossil Beds.
Hagerman Fossil Beds National Monument Visitor’s Center & Museum
On the main street running through Hagerman in the heart of town lies a museum about the size of a two bedroom house. It may not seem like much from the outside, but the amount of history stored in the glass cases rivals that of most of the National Parks Visitor Centers. The museum is free to visit.
Step through the doors and your immediately greeted by the full-size Hagerman Horse skeleton. In the 1930s, archaeologists dug up 20 full skeletons and 120 horse skulls in the nearby hills after getting a call from a local farmer who stumbled upon the discovery.
Now you may be wondering why we commonly credit Christopher Colombus for bringing horses from Spain to North America. It turns out that the Hagerman area was once lush with grassy plains similar to the conditions of the modern day Serengeti in Africa. When the climate changed, the horses had to migrate or face extinction. So long ago the horses made the long trek over the land that once connected North America, Europe, and Asia. When the nations separated, the horses metaphorically missed the boat and became a fixture of the new continent. Eventually (millions of years later), they caught their return trip aboard the conquistador’s ships and returned to their homeland.
The museum also has several other intriguing fossils besides the horses. Animals like camels and the cousin of the woolly mammoth, the Mastodon, all use to roam this area.
Snake River Overlook
The Hagerman Fossil Beds have two official viewpoints. Neither are all that spectacular. I will say they are very well maintained for a National Monument that doesn’t charge any fees. From the museum, head south until you see the viewpoint directional signs. The first viewpoint is the Snake River Overlook. If you’re from Idaho and used to the scenery, it’s a little underwhelming. The outlook also serves as the trailhead for the Emigrant Trail, a six-mile roundtrip hike that connects the two viewpoints. The most exciting part of the walk is the fact you are traveling the same path the Native Americans of the Shoshone-Bannock tribes traversed to fish the river. There isn’t much to see along the trail though.
Oregon Trail Overlook
As a child that grew up playing the Oregon Trail videogame, I am fascinated with the real-life history. Given the opportunity to pull over for a historical Oregon Trail site, I don’t hesitate. The road to the second viewpoint was once part of the original Oregon Trail route. You can hike another 0.6-mile section of the trail starting at Oregon Tail Overlook. The trail boasts the preserved wagon tracks of the original settlers. I am disappointed to say we never saw the tracks. Our best guess is that overgrowth now obscures the ruts. I can’t say its worth the small amount of effort it takes to walk the placards along the trail.
Rim to River Hike
At the museum, we inquired about visiting the spot where the horse fossils were discovered. You can’t get close to the excavation site. In fact, it appears to be somewhat of a secret. It’s not labeled on any maps, or brochures and is not on any official National Park Service Websites. Talking to the Rangers and Volunteers is the only way to find out how to see the area.
We were given one clue. The dig site is an unnatural 90-degree chunk carved out of the side of triangle shaped hill which you can see before you descend into the canyon. I love treasure hunts, and my wife loves detective shows. Between the two of us, we were confident this would be easy to find.
It turns out there is a forgotten hike that will bring you to the closest point near the dig site. The Rim to River trail is 8.2 Miles Round Trip. It was deemed difficult by the Park service which is why it is no longer promoted. We also found out that it is a rather dull hike. It’s a bit monotonous because the view seems to be the same at every point along the trail until you drop into the canyon. Watch your feet on this trail. Horses have created big ankle twisting divots and carpeted the trail with their droppings.
Despite mediocre views, sore feet and poop, we pressed on with our mission. What we were told would be obvious once you see it, proved to be a stiff challenge. Most likely because we had no pictures to reference and neither of us had ever actually seen a former archeological dig site. At the edge of the canyon rim under the power poles, we pulled out the binoculars. Looking across the ravine, we saw a large hill with some exposed rock. I wouldn’t exactly call it a triangle, but it did come to a rounded point. Parts of it did not look like a natural cliff face. Zooming in with the binoculars you can also see a small black sign, but we couldn’t make out any writing on it.
With the limited information, we were given this was the only logical spot. The bummer is, if this is true, you can see this spot from the trailhead, and we could have saved ourselves the walk. We did see a herd of deer though so all in all, it was still a decent walkabout.
So is it Worth Visiting the Hagerman Fossil Beds?
If you’re passing through Hagerman, make the time to stop at the museum in the center of town. It is worth taking 30 minutes to look at the unique fossils. The viewpoints are alright, but there is nothing you’ll be sorry you missed should you decide not to visit them. As for hiking, skip the Fossil Beds and head to the nearby Box Canyon. Despite what you choose to do, make sure you don’t leave town without eating at the Snake River Grill. It’s the best Idaho restaurant south of Boise. We eat there every time we pass through.
Chad can be summed up by his idea of a perfect day: Waking up early to watch the sunrise over the mountains, warm cup of coffee in hand then grabbing his camera and fly rod, hitting the trail to explore some uncharted territory followed by cold beers and campfire steaks. Chad is often joined on his adventures by his wife, Tori, and their dog, Kona.