Banff, nestled in the heart of the Canadian Rockies, is often considered one of the most beautiful places on Earth. While many think of visiting during the summer months, a winter trip to Banff offers an entirely different kind of magic. Snow-draped mountains, frozen lakes, and the quiet serenity of a crisp winter morning make this a destination worth exploring when the temperatures drop.
Admittedly, the thought of traveling to Banff in the middle of winter can be intimidating, especially for someone like me who doesn’t love driving in snow. But with well-maintained roads and easy flights into nearby Calgary, the journey turned out to be much smoother than expected. Once we arrived, the charm of wintertime Banff immediately set in. From the crackling fires in cozy lodges to adrenaline-pumping adventures like dog sledding, this trip turned out to be one for the books.
If you’re considering your own winter escape to Banff, here’s a breakdown of our experience, along with a detailed itinerary to help you plan the perfect retreat in this winter wonderland.
Elk and a Sunrise to Remember
I’ve always heard that Banff was special, but nothing could prepare me for what I woke up to the first morning. As the sun rose, casting a soft glow over the snow-capped mountains, I stepped outside our lodge to find a herd of elk calmly grazing nearby. With the majestic Rockies in the background, it was a scene straight out of a nature documentary—pure Banff magic.
A Dog Sledding Adventure
Our trip started with a bang as we checked off a bucket-list item: dog sledding. We booked a two-hour adventure with Snowy Owl Tours, and it turned out to be one of the greatest experiences of my life. They picked us up from downtown Canmore (24 minutes outside of Banff) and whisked us into the wilderness to meet our pack of sled dogs. These dogs are incredible—so friendly and eager to run! What impressed us the most was how well Snowy Owl cares for the dogs, ensuring their health and happiness.
During the tour, you have the option to either sit in the sled or drive it yourself—something I highly recommend if you’re feeling adventurous. The guides are great at teaching you the basics, like how to break and lean into turns to avoid tipping the sled. The best part? You’re not just along for the ride; you’re part of the team. After the tour, we even got to feed the dogs, which was incredibly rewarding.
Banff Gondola: Views for Days
After the adrenaline rush of dog sledding, we headed up the Banff Gondola. This is one of the highest-rated tourist activities in Banff, and for good reason. The eight-minute ride to the top of Sulphur Mountain offers views that are simply unmatched. From the summit, you can see six different mountain ranges. If you’re up for it, follow the boardwalk all the way to the fire lookout for even more stunning vistas. It’s quite a few stairs, but it’s worth the effort.
While there are a couple of dining options at the top, I’d recommend skipping them in favor of something more budget-friendly downtown. Still, plan to spend 1-3 hours exploring the mountaintop before heading back down.
A Sweet Treat: Beaver Tails
If you’ve never had a Beaver Tail, now’s your chance. This Canadian treat is similar to an elephant ear you’d find at a fair, but with endless topping options. Whether you prefer cinnamon and sugar, Nutella, or even ice cream, there’s a Beaver Tail for every sweet tooth. It’s the perfect way to cap off a day of exploring.
Exploring Lake Louise in Winter
Lake Louise is famous for its stunning turquoise waters, but don’t let winter deter you—it’s a whole different kind of beauty when it’s frozen over. The iconic Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise looks like a castle straight out of a fairytale, and there are plenty of winter activities to enjoy. Ice skating, ice sculptures, and even an ice bar await you on the frozen lake. If you’re lucky, you might catch some ice climbers scaling the frozen waterfalls nearby.
Once you’ve had your fill of the cold, head inside the Fairmont for high tea. Now, I’m not typically a “tea person,” but this was an experience I’ll never forget. The staff guided us through the different types of tea, and the variety of snacks—think macaroons, cucumber sandwiches, and deviled salmon—was both unique and delicious.
The Johnston Canyon Hike
Our final day in Banff was all about adventure, so we decided to tackle the Johnston Canyon hike. This trail is popular year-round, but it’s especially beautiful in winter. Following the river, you’ll pass frozen waterfalls, crystal-clear blue pools, and some truly gorgeous scenery. There’s a well-maintained walkway, but don’t let that fool you—this hike still offers a workout, especially in winter conditions. Be sure to wear microspikes if you have them; we saw several people take spills on the icy path.
4-Day Winter Itinerary for Banff
If you’re planning your own winter retreat to Banff, here’s a suggested 4-day itinerary based on my experience. It includes a perfect mix of relaxation, adventure, and the natural beauty that Banff has to offer.
Day 1: Arrival & Relaxation
- Fly into Calgary and pick up a rental car.
- Drive 1.5 hours to Banff and check into your lodge.
- Spend the afternoon relaxing by the fire at your lodge.
- Evening cocktails to kick off your trip and enjoy the cozy lodge atmosphere.
Day 2: Wildlife & Adventure
- Early morning sunrise: Wake up to see the sunrise over the Rockies, and keep an eye out for wildlife like elk.
- Dog sledding adventure: Take a 2-hour dog sledding tour with Snowy Owl Tours. Choose to drive the sled or sit back and enjoy the ride. Don’t forget to feed the dogs afterward.
- Afternoon: Head to the Banff Gondola and take the 8-minute ride to the top of Sulphur Mountain.
- Walk the boardwalk to the fire lookout for stunning panoramic views of six mountain ranges.
- Spend 1-3 hours exploring and taking in the views before heading back down.
- Evening: Enjoy dinner at a local spot downtown and grab a Beaver Tail for dessert.
Day 3: Lake Louise & Winter Fun
- Morning: Drive up to Lake Louise and visit the Fairmont Chateau.
- Ice skating & exploring: Spend the morning ice skating, viewing ice sculptures, or grabbing a warm drink at the ice bar.
- Frozen waterfalls: Take a short hike across the frozen lake to see the ice climbers scaling the frozen waterfalls.
- Afternoon: Warm up with high tea at the Fairmont. Indulge in a selection of teas and enjoy a three-tiered platter of desserts and snacks.
- Evening: Return to Banff and explore downtown for dinner or more sweet treats.
Day 4: Canyon Hike & Departure
- Morning hike: Head out to Johnston Canyon for a winter hike. Follow the scenic path along the river to frozen waterfalls and blue pools.
- Wear microspikes for safety and enjoy the breathtaking winter landscape.
- Afternoon: Return to your lodge for a final moment of relaxation or explore any last-minute downtown spots.
- Evening: Drive back to Calgary for your evening flight home.
This 4-day itinerary is perfect for anyone looking to experience the winter magic of Banff without missing any of its highlights.
Final Thoughts
Banff in winter is nothing short of magical. Whether you’re marveling at wildlife, dog sledding through pristine wilderness, or taking in panoramic mountain views, there’s something here for everyone. If you’re looking for an unforgettable winter retreat, Banff should be at the top of your list.
Explore Some More
How to Setup the Perfect Campsite – If you’re planning on camping during your Banff trip, this guide offers great tips on setting up a comfortable and safe campsite, which can come in handy for winter adventurers.
Blue Lake Trail in Cascade, Idaho – Explore more scenic trails, similar to the ones around Banff, with tips on navigating challenging terrain and enjoying alpine lakes.
Chad can be summed up by his idea of a perfect day: Waking up early to watch the sunrise over the mountains, warm cup of coffee in hand then grabbing his camera and fly rod, hitting the trail to explore some uncharted territory followed by cold beers and campfire steaks. Chad is often joined on his adventures by his wife, Tori, and their dog, Kona.